• Ian Watts

Putting it all together / Final connections

On the home straight now !


Just a bunch of wires (all with plugs / sockets on) to connect to the scoot and we're pretty much ready for a dry test !


[1] Throttle / Twistgrip

It was day 2 or 3, I think, when I got round to disconnecting the twist grip cable from both the carburettor and throttle ends. After that the original handlebar grips were pretty simple to remove; friction fit, so... a little brute force... and off they both popped.

The throttle / 5K twist grip had already arrived...

Unfortunately the connector wasn't the same type as that on the controller harness. Fortunately, I had some spares, so removed the un-required, black, cable end connector, trim the three cores, match up the colours (red/+ve, black/-ve and green/throttle), crimp on new terminals to match the new connector and connect the cables / plug'n'socket !

Throttle... done... until the dry run / test !!


[2] High Level Brake

According to the manual, this is to remove power from the motor when the brake is applied - makes sense. But, upon reflection... that would mean pulling away on a hill would require a little more... finesse / timing... As this was simply a question of adding a suitable connector to the brake tell-tale I'd already 'T'ed off the brake light cable (during week 2 electrics tidy-up) and putting cable plug into controller loom (beige wire) socket I thought I'd add an in-line switch to enable / disable this feature. I mounted the switch adjacent to the fuse panel.

In theory, 'making' the switch would disable motor power whilst one or other (or both) of the brakes were on and 'breaking' the switch would disable this feature, thereby enabling power to the motor even though the brakes were on ! It took me no more that 15 additional minutes to complete so I thought it was worth it ! We'll see...


[3] Hi-Speed / Lo-Speed

The controller loom has a 3-wire (blue/black/white) connector. Apparently blue/black = Hi-Speed and white/black = Lo-Speed. Making a change here / switch between Hi and Lo speeds, when all the bodywork was back in place, would be difficult, I thought. So, again, I added a wee switch, adjacent to the High level brake switch at the fuse panel to select Hi...or... Lo.

A little more time to complete that the brake switch but... bound to be useful... although I'm sure the only 'real' / 'likely' position will be High !! Again, we'll see...


[4] Cruise control

The controller comes with a black-white cable pair for cruise control... I thought there would probably be more disadvantages to this that advantages... and I'd already allocated the kill switch as Controller 'Enable' so... there were no more handlebar switches and... adding one wouldn't be too easy / pretty and... like I say, why would 'Cruise' functionality be required on a wee scoot ? !

I left this connector in the loom - disconnected.


[5] Reverse

The controller also has a black/blue cable pair for reverse... I'd already modified the Starter button for just this purpose so... I crimped the terminals onto the two wires I'd led aft to the controller area from the Starter switch and connected the two up. In theory... we've now gotten a Reverse !!


[6] Display

This is a single purple cable exiting the controller. I have absolutely no idea as to what capabilities it has or what specific display to connect it to. Currently I have left the original Chinese display as-was EXCEPT where I've taken the fuel gauge cable back to the controller / shunt area along with the Low Oil Warning lamp cable. These two are going to be re-tasked as battery level / SoC gauge and a Lo Voltage (<68V ?) lamp...


[7] Hall sensor

The 6 pin hall sensor cable existing the controller simply plugged into the matching cable exiting the motor. Simple.


[8] Power

The thick red and black cables exiting the controller were connected :

red --> HV SSR out (HV 'relay' output terminal)

black -> output side of the shunt (opposite side of the shunt to the battery -ve terminal)


[9] Motor phase

The thick blue / green and yellow cables existing the controller were connected to the same cables exiting the motor via a 50A terminal block.


[10] Power Lock

The controller has a power lock cable. The controller will not become active / energise the motor if this cable is not connected to 12V. This cable was, therefore connected with the 2x SSR energising cables to the ignition switch via the kill switch and side-stand switch.

If the ignition switch is 'Off' or the kill switch is in the 'Off' position or the side stand is down then this cable is disconnected from 12V and the controller remains inoperative.


[11] Anti-theft

As of yet, I don't have an alarm for the scoot. I did spend a little time looking into bluetooth , and other keyless-type alarms but although pretty cheap I felt that, for where we live (extremely quiet) didn't really require anything... yet...


[12] Control panel electrics

During the electrics tidy-up phase I 'found' the cable (original ignition output) that supplies the instrument panel and, therefore, the onboard scoot electrics (head light, side lights, indicators and horn etc...) This cable was connected, via a 10A fuse, at the fusepanel to the DCDC convertor output. Remember the DCDC convertor is fed with 72V from the LV SSR only when the ignition switch is on and regardless of the kill switch / side stand positions.

All electrics finished (NOT tested). Just refit the battery tray and connect up the Batteries !

Now, I'm almost finished, I can smell it... I'm off to dry-test... YIPEE !!

Couldn't stop myself, ignition On and the lights all work... the horn doesn't.... hmmmmm

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© 2017 Ian Watts